On the last day of the Martu Jaiak, the Pilar fiestas of San Sebastián’s Martutene neighbourhood, the playground of the Arantzazuko Ama ikastola becomes a cider house by mid-morning. Twelve cider houses pour, eight of them from Astigarraga, just across the Urumea river, alongside local farm produce, craft stalls and, as every year, the Arrastaka trikitixa players.